India’s textile heritage is as rich and diverse as its culture, with centuries of traditional techniques that once thrived across the country. These textiles were not just fabric, but expressions of art, craftsmanship, and cultural identity. However, the forces of industrialisation, globalisation, and changing fashion trends have led to the near extinction of many of these ancient fabrics and weaving techniques. This article delves into the lesser-known textiles that have vanished or are at risk of vanishing, preserving their legacies through storytelling and ongoing efforts to revive them.

The Glory of Ancient Textiles

India’s textile history dates back to over 5,000 years, with evidence of its vibrant cloth-making culture found in archaeological sites like the Harappan Civilisation. The early Indian textiles were crafted from natural fibres such as cotton, silk, and wool, with intricate techniques such as handloom weaving, dyeing, and embroidery used across various regions. Textiles were not only used for clothing but also for religious rituals, trading, and even as symbols of power and wealth.

Some of the textiles that gained fame were exported across the world, such as muslin from Bengal and the famous Kanchipuram silk from Tamil Nadu. However, many others remained region-specific and are now at the brink of oblivion.

Vanishing Weaves and Fabrics

1. Mashru: A beautiful fabric that originated in Gujarat, Mashru was traditionally woven with silk and cotton, combining the luster of silk with the comfort of cotton. The process of weaving Mashru was highly intricate, involving a mix of plain weave with supplementary techniques. The fabric was often used to create garments for royalty and nobility. However, the decline in demand for handmade textiles and the rise of synthetic fabrics has led to the disappearance of Mashru weaving.

2. Khadi Jamdani: This luxurious cotton fabric was famous in Bengal, where skilled artisans wove intricate patterns into the fabric using a technique called Jamdani. Unlike the regular handloom weaving, Jamdani involves placing supplementary weft threads to create delicate designs. With industrialisation and mechanised looms taking over, the delicate craft of Khadi Jamdani has dwindled, and only a handful of artisans still continue this tradition.

3. Chanderi Silk: Chanderi, known for its lightweight and transparent texture, is a traditional fabric woven in the town of Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh. The craft of weaving Chanderi dates back to the Mughal period, but with the advent of power looms and synthetic fabrics, the traditional handwoven Chanderi is now becoming increasingly rare. The weaving patterns that once symbolised royalty and grandeur have become forgotten by newer generations.

4. Tangaliya Weaving: A unique craft from Gujarat, Tangaliya weaving involves a complex technique where the weaver uses extra-weft yarn to form intricate patterns, often depicting geometric shapes and motifs. This textile, typically made from wool, was once used to make shawls, blankets, and garments. However, due to competition from machine-made fabrics, Tangaliya weaving has become a vanishing craft, with few artisans left to pass on the tradition.

5. Paithani: Paithani is one of the oldest and most revered handloom textiles from Maharashtra, made using the finest silk and gold threads. It is characterised by its elaborate border and intricate motifs, often depicting peacocks, floral patterns, and paisleys. The Paithani was once used as a ceremonial fabric for weddings and religious rituals. However, the high cost of production and the availability of cheaper, mass-produced fabrics have diminished its presence in modern-day India.

The Disappearance of Traditional Dyeing Techniques

Dyeing was an essential aspect of India’s textile culture, with regional variations in colours and techniques. Some of the most famous dyes included indigo, madder, and cochineal. However, these natural dyeing methods have largely been replaced by synthetic dyes, which are faster, cheaper, and more versatile.

1. Indigo Dyeing: Indigo dyeing, especially from Gujarat and Bengal, was one of the earliest natural dyeing techniques used in India. The vibrant blue colour obtained from indigo plants became a hallmark of Indian textiles and was exported to Europe and beyond. The British colonial period’s suppression of indigenous dyeing methods and the shift towards chemical dyes led to the decline of indigo production, although efforts to revive this tradition are underway in certain regions.

2. Bandhani and Leheriya: These ancient tie-dye techniques, practiced extensively in Rajasthan and Gujarat, involve the careful tying and dyeing of fabric to create beautiful, intricate patterns. While bandhani continues to be practiced in some areas, the advent of mass production and the allure of synthetic dyes have pushed traditional hand-dyeing techniques to the margins. Additionally, the fast fashion industry has also led to a decrease in demand for hand-dyed fabrics.

Social, Economic, and Cultural Impacts

The decline of these traditional textiles is not merely a loss of craft but a deep blow to India’s socio-economic fabric. Many of these textile traditions were tied to specific communities, often reflecting their unique cultural identity. With the fading of these crafts, not only are these communities losing their livelihoods, but they are also losing a significant part of their cultural heritage.

Women have traditionally played an essential role in India’s textile industry. In weaving communities, women were responsible for many aspects of textile production, including dyeing, spinning, and weaving. With the disappearance of traditional textiles, many of these women have lost their source of income, further exacerbating poverty in rural regions.

Preservation and Revival Efforts

Efforts to revive India’s vanishing textile heritage have gained momentum in recent years, led by a new generation of artisans, designers, and NGOs who are committed to preserving traditional craft techniques. Some key steps towards reviving India’s textile heritage include:

1. Documentation and Awareness

Organisations like the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) and the Crafts Council of India have taken steps to document endangered textile practices and raise awareness about their cultural significance. Such efforts are crucial in ensuring that these crafts do not vanish without leaving a trace.

2. Empowering Artisans

Many NGOs are working to empower artisans by offering fair wages, teaching them modern design techniques, and ensuring their work reaches global markets. By connecting traditional crafts with contemporary design, these organisations are helping artisans maintain relevance in the modern world.

3. Sustainable Fashion and Ethical Consumption

The growing movement for sustainable fashion is encouraging consumers to embrace ethical alternatives, including handwoven textiles. As awareness about the environmental and cultural impact of fast fashion spreads, consumers are slowly becoming more inclined to support traditional textile practices that are environmentally friendly and culturally enriching.

4. Collaborations with Designers

Indian designers are increasingly collaborating with artisans to incorporate traditional textiles into modern fashion. This fusion of contemporary and traditional styles is helping preserve textile practices that may otherwise have disappeared. High-profile designers like Anita Dongre and Sabyasachi Mukherjee have made efforts to incorporate traditional textiles such as Banarasi silk, Chikan embroidery, and Kanjivaram silk into their collections.